Judenhof - The Jewish Courtyard

On July 27th, 2021, the SchUM sites in Speyer, Worms and Mainz were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as serial World Heritage Sites. 

In the Middle Ages, the Jewish communities of the cities of Speyer, Worms and Mainz formed a union known as ShUM. The term ShUM is an acronym of the initial Hebrew letters of the medieval names of the three cities, which were derived from the Hebrew language: 

  • Schin for Schpira (Speyer), 
  • Waw for Warmaisa (Worms) and 
  • Mem for Magenza (Mainz). 

In the Middle Ages, ShUM was authoritative in both architectural and religious terms. 

The Jewish Courtyard

Speyer's World Heritage Site, the Judenhof, is located in Kleine Pfafffengasse, in the immediate vicinity of the cathedral. The Judenhof was once the center of the second Jewish settlement in Speyer and a place of religious and intellectual exchange. The SchUM cities were home to scholars who were known far beyond the city limits. Speyer gained a special reputation as a place of study in the 12th century and a group of intellectuals went down in history as the Wise Men of Speyer.

Today, the Judenhof houses the remains of the medieval synagogue consecrated in 1104 with an adjoining women's school and a ritual bath. The Museum SchPIRA (website German only) has been set up in the neighboring house.  

Medieval synagogue with women's school

In the 10th and 11th centuries, Jews settled on the Rhine for the first time since the end of antiquity, thus establishing a history of synagogue construction in Germany spanning over a thousand years. The synagogue in Speyer, consecrated in 1104, was a Romanesque hall building with a width of around 10.5 meters and a length of 17.5 meters. The remains of the synagogue are now considered to be the oldest upright Jewish cult building of the Middle Ages.
Various building elements at the Jewish places of worship can be found in a similar form at Speyer Cathedral and suggest the involvement of craftsmen from the cathedral's construction workshop. The decisive factor for the settlement of the Jews was their activity in trade, which is why they were predominantly restricted to this occupational field. They were only able to work as craftsmen in exceptional cases.
We know very little about the interior of the synagogue. From a note in rabbinical literature, we learn that it had a floor covered with stone slabs and glazed windows. Traces of the window frames have been preserved on the two windows in the west wall.

In Germany, in addition to the men's synagogues, women's synagogues were also built. In the ShUM towns, rooms began to be added to the actual synagogue in the 13th century. In some cases, such as in Worms and Speyer, these were connected to the men's synagogue via sound openings so that women could take part in the proceedings.

The existence of the women's school suggests that women were held in higher esteem within the Jewish community than is generally assumed. Apart from the ornamentally decorated floor tiles, the furnishings were kept rather simple and were limited to a bench that completely surrounded the room.

The Jewish place of worship was desecrated during the pogrom of 1349 and restored in 1354 with some structural alterations. After the expulsion of the Jews in the early 16th century, in connection with its conversion into the municipal arsenal, it was finally destroyed and the floor there was closed with a rough pavement. 

The Mikveh in the Judenhof - the Jewish ritual bath

Almost at the same time as the synagogue, the community built the ritual bath, the so-called mikvah. It is located not far from the medieval synagogue and is the oldest facility of its kind north of the Alps.

The mikvah was used for ritual purification. It was mainly used by women after childbirth or menstruation and before marriage. Occasionally, men also went to the mikvah.

A barrel-vaulted staircase leads via an anteroom to the square bathing shaft with groin vault, which is ten meters below ground. Here, worshippers performed the ritual cleansing prescribed by Mosaic law by immersing themselves in “living”, i.e. naturally flowing, water. Steps led down to the actual bathing shaft, whose water level fell or rose with the groundwater. Quicksand at the bottom ensured that the water regenerated. Although the water was very cold, a slight current prevented it from freezing over during the cold winter months.

The mikvah is decorated with rich Romanesque ornaments, which were painted in color in the Middle Ages. A two-part window zone opens the view into the bathing shaft.
Today, the facility is covered with a glass construction to protect it.

the Yeshiva

The yeshiva can no longer be seen today, but its foundations are still preserved and hidden in the ground. The yeshiva is a college where students devote themselves primarily to the study of Talmud and Torah.

In Speyer, the educational institution was built in the first half of the 14th century as an extension to the east wall of the synagogue courtyard. As such, the yeshiva illustrates the value placed on religious learning and teaching in Judaism. Its shape can still be seen today on the surrounding wall of the courtyard and on the east wall of the synagogue. 

Guided tours through Jewish Speyer

Get to know the city's Jewish heritage in special guided tours and let us tell you about 1,000 years of Jewish history in Speyer.

The Judenhof, the new synagogue or the stumbling stones in front of the houses in the city: our specially trained guides will show you the places that are significant for Jewish life in Speyer.

You can also book our guides for your preferred date via the Tourist Information Office.

A visit to the SchUM site Judenhof is always part of our standard Speyer city walk. The Verkehrsverein Speyer provides information on admission prices and opening times on its website (German only).